Letters From The Olive Grove

Autore: Holly Rhodes

  • Week # 11

    Taylor Swift has been front and center lately, so it only feels right to kick off this entry with a lyric from her song: “August slipped away into a moment in time.” Honestly, August did just that—vanished before I could blink and I’m blaming that whirlwind for why this blog went on an extra-long sabbatical. But what a month it was! August in Italy is a magical time when locals hit the holiday circuit, and the villages come alive with parties and festivals.

    Before Italy, I’d never heard of a palio. Twice a year in Siena, there’s a legendary horse race: each horse represents a different city neighborhood, and the streets flood with fans decked out in corridor colors and logos, cheering for their team. The horses race with bareback riders around the historic Piazza del Campo, a tradition that’s been going strong since 1633, drawing crowds that make Times Square look tame.

    I had my heart set on seeing it, but luck wasn’t on my side; I missed the big event. Cue the tiny town of Roccatedertighi, which serves up a hilarious twist: a palio with donkeys instead of horses. How could I pass that up? We arrived bright and early, only to discover (after sitting through a marathon of Italian commentary) that the actual race wouldn’t happen until much later that night. Seizing the day, we wandered the city, soaking in sweeping views of Tuscany, before ducking home for a quick siesta.

    When evening rolled around, we returned to find a sight that was equal parts chaotic and charming: grown men racing donkeys bareback through the winding village streets. The local excitement; part carnival, part comedy show—was absolutely infectious. It was one of those wild, unforgettable moments that made me grateful August slipped away with such style.

  • Week #10

    The sunsets this week have been absolutely brilliant golden skies with clouds so puffy they looked like popcorn scattered across the horizon.

    Our weekly adventure took us to Saturnia, famous for its natural hot springs, and it did not disappoint. The highlight was Cascate del Mulino, a series of cascading thermal pools tucked beneath an old Tuscan farmhouse. The water was the most incredible aqua blue, warm and soothing as it flowed from tier to tier. If you ever find yourself in this region of Tuscany, this place is an absolute must.

    As the sun rose higher and the heat of the day intensified, we decided it was time to trade the wild springs for something a little more relaxing. Just down the road, we found Terme di Saturnia, a spa with thermal pools and plenty of shade. Wrapped in soft white robes, we floated the afternoon away and it felt like such a luxury.

    Later that day, we visited the town of Pitigliano, also known as “Little Jerusalem.” Perched on a rocky hill, the town is as charming inside its walls as it looks from afar. While exploring a vintage shop, I stumbled upon a treasure: a CD of Beatles songs covered by famous Italian bands. Such a fun and unexpected find!

    Back in our little town of Montieri, we experienced something truly magical: a festival called Luna Bona. After living here for two and a half months, I thought I had the layout of the town figured out; just a main street with a couple of cafes, a pizzeria, the tourist center, a post office, and a tabacchi. But during the festival, I discovered an entire hidden side of Montieri. Behind the pizzeria, the streets opened up into a palazzo and winding alleys lined with houses I never knew existed!

    On this special night, the whole town came alive. Strings of lights glowed above the streets, food vendors filled the air with delicious aromas, acrobats and magicians entertained, and music drifted through every walkway. It felt like stepping into another world, and I was so grateful to be there to experience it.

    The very next night, we went to yet another town festival. Though it didn’t quite match the charm of Montieri’s celebration, it was still full of music, laughter, and community. I love how much Italians embrace life, gathering together to celebrate friendship, family, and the simple joy of being together.

  • Week # 9

    The beginning of the month was marked by adventure. We visited a beautiful Tuscan city called Volterra. Twilight fans may recognize the name; though the city itself has no actual ties to vampires, the books and subsequent movie reference it in a way that suggests otherwise. In reality, Volterra is simply another charming Tuscan town, complete with a stunning palazzo, winding streets, and of course, excellent gelato.

    One thing Volterra is especially known for is its alabaster. It’s abundant in the region, and local artisans transform the stone into incredible treasures. After spending the day wandering through the city, we headed to the coast on our day off and discovered a breathtaking beach. The water was a tranquil, crystal blue and surprisingly warm. Having spent five years in Southern California, I have to admit; the beaches here are on another level. Every chance I get to dip into the sea feels like a gift.

    As July gives way to August, the region come alive with festivities. This is the time when Italians take their summer holidays, and nearly every nearby town was buzzing with celebrations. Amid the excitement, I had the chance to work on a fun project at the hotel. The owner had the idea of creating garden boxes on wheels to divide the restaurant space and provide guests with a little more privacy. I had never built garden boxes before let alone ones that rolled but the project was an absolute blast, and I was so proud of how beautifully they turned out.

    Later in the week, we made a little discovery in Grosseto, one of the larger cities nearby: a spot serving incredible hamburgers. I know hamburgers in Italy! But trust me, they were amazing, with so many creative and delicious options.

    Every day here continues to leave me in awe. Even in the dry, hot weather, the Tuscan landscape remains impossibly green and breathtaking.

    Until next time.

    Holly

  • Week # 8

    Salve!

    There are many ways to say hello in italiano, but the two most common are ciao—which also works as “goodbye,” kind of like aloha—and salve, pronounced SAUL-vey.

    I’ve really been trying to hone in on learning and using Italian as much as possible. It helps that I know basic Spanish, which is surprisingly similar to Italian. I’d say things are going pretty well… although, just when you think you’re getting the hang of it, reality has a way of humbling you.

    Mine came at the cinema.

    Yes, I went to an actual movie theater! Here it’s called Space Cinema—very fun and on-theme. There are quite a few entertaining movies out right now, and I was really in the mood to go. Naively, we thought maybe a showing would be in English. But come on—that’s like going to the movies in the U.S. and expecting one of them to be in another language. Not likely.

    So, we picked a movie we thought we knew the plot of well enough to get by: Fantastic Four. All I can say is, it is truly so sad to not understand the words being spoken right in front of you. It was a fun experience, but I could only catch a few words every 30 minutes. So yes, I do believe I’ll be seeing Fantastic Four again—which isn’t something I typically say about Marvel movies—but I do really wanna know what was being said!

    Here’s a fun surprise about Italian movie theaters: they have intermissions! That’s right—right in the middle of the movie, it cuts to a screen with a 10-minute countdown. It felt like the film was literally paused at a crucial moment. Wild! All in all, it was a good experience, but I think I’ll wait until my Italian is a little stronger before going again.

    But the movies weren’t my only new adventure this week—there was horseback riding!

    Something I’ve been dying to do since I started working at the hotel. It’s one of the activities we offer to guests (through a nearby partner hotel), and I’ve been wanting to try it out for a while. It was amazing to be back on a horse again—a very tall horse, I might add.

    My horse, Perla, was quite the gassy gal, especially on the uphills! Still, the trail through the woods was gorgeous and the ride was incredibly peaceful. I can’t wait to go again when I get the chance!

    Another fun little side quest: plum picking!

    Our office manager at the hotel has tons of plum trees and invited us to pick some so the kitchen could make jam—maybe even plum pudding. (I’ve heard that’s good!) I’ve eaten plenty of prunes in my life—shoutout to Grandma—but it turns out fresh plums are actually quite tart. The dog seemed to love them though!

    I also started a new project I’m really excited about: building moveable garden boxes for the restaurant! The idea is to create a bit of privacy between the tables, and I love how it’s coming together.

    My dad is an excellent carpenter, and it’s been so fun discovering that passion and skill in myself. I haven’t really been in a situation that called for so many woodworking projects, but I’m loving it!

    With love,

    Holly

  • Letter # 7

    I’m late once again in writing, and I have so much to share—which is a bit tricky as I’m typing this from my phone with my thumbs. I sliced my finger on a wine glass stem (a true hazard of the trade). I wash and dry at least 30 wine glasses a day, and in my time here, I’ve only broken three. Not bad, I’d say!

    This past week has been a packed one. We welcomed another intern, so our little group has grown. I’ve essentially become the shuttle driver—running people to work, picking them up, taking grocery store trips, and navigating all the wonderfully windy (and very Italian) roads. It’s been great meeting new people, though. We now have a diverse team: someone from Chile, Argentina, South Africa, two from New Zealand, and Canada. It’s really nice to have friends from all over the world.

    Last weekend, I visited a new part of Tuscany. I was invited to a birthday party in Anghiari, which is closer to the east coast. On the way there, we stopped in a charming hilltop town called Cortona. Little did I know at the time, but Under the Tuscan Sun was filmed there! I’ve always loved that movie and often wondered where in Tuscany it was filmed—so it felt serendipitous to just stumble upon it.

    After wandering the cobbled streets and enjoying a gelato (of course), we continued to the birthday party. The hosts were a couple originally from the Bay Area who moved to Tuscany over a decade ago. Their stunning home overlooked Anghiari, complete with a pizza oven in the backyard. We spent the evening chatting over homemade pizza and a delicious salad. The night ended with a surprise: a private fireworks show when the cake was brought out. It was absolutely incredible—massive, colorful, and breathtaking. After missing the Fourth of July, it really lifted my spirits.

    Then it was back to work—though “work” looks a bit different every day. Most commonly, it involves guest room door issues. I’ve become quite the expert in this area. At least twice a week, something goes wrong with a door, and I’ve gotten pretty handy with tools and fixes. The more you know, right?

    The other night, I was asked to help open a guest room door. I assumed it was the usual—lockout, jammed latch, or a dead battery. But the guest showed me a picture on her phone: there was a gecko wedged between the door and the frame. Her friend was inside and didn’t want to open the door in case the little guy slipped in.

    So I went down to the room. Sure enough, there he was. I gently opened the door and down he fell—poor thing. Having once owned a pet gecko, I must admit, it was a bit traumatic. I released him into the olive grove, where he may now rest in peace.

    And with that, I’ll close this letter—not just with an arrivederci to our brave little gecko friend, but to all of you.

    Thanks for reading.

    With Love,

    Holly

  • Letter # 6

    When I first arrived in Tuscany, I kept seeing these dreamy postcards with golden fields of sunflowers. At the time, I thought, “Do these even exist? Or is this just Italian marketing magic?” Fast forward to this week—just outside Grosseto—I saw them in real life for the first time. Endless fields of sunflowers swaying under the sun, and let me tell you, they are stunning. Apparently, come fall, they’ll be harvested for oil and seeds, but until September, it’s pure sunflower heaven!

    This week I also got crafty with a few upcycling projects. We’ve got a never-ending supply of corks and wine bottles (when in Italy, right?), so I’ve been finding fun ways to repurpose them. I’ve made candles from bottles, cups out of the bases, and even a quirky little planter using corks and bottle tops. There’s something so satisfying about giving these items a second life—plus, they’re cute! We’re going to start selling the candles and cups in the shop soon, and I’m really excited to see how they do.

    I also ventured out of the countryside to visit a mall—and what I can only describe as the Italian version of Costco. Both were fun little culture trips! The nearest mall is in Grosseto, close to the western coast, and every time I pop into the city, it feels like a mini adventure. As much as I adore the peacefulness of rural life here, there’s still a big part of me that loves the buzz of a bigger town. I guess I’m a country soul with a city spark.

    One of the highlights of the week was seeing a new idea come to life: Wine & Watercolors! Inspired by the classic paint-and-sip night, we put a Tuscan twist on it. Our amazing receptionist, Giulia, is a talented watercolor artist, and she was thrilled at the chance to lead a class for guests. This Thursday was our first session and it was a hit! Guests were smiling, Giulia was glowing, and honestly, it felt magical. Our location is perfect for things like this, so it was incredibly rewarding to see it all come together. We’ve got more ideas in the works to enhance the guest experience, and I can’t wait to bring those to life too.

    On a totally different note, I also pitched in on housekeeping this week. One of our team members has been out sick, so I grabbed the vacuum and got to work. There’s something really refreshing about doing a task where the results are immediate—you walk into a messy room, and 40 minutes later, voilà, transformation complete. That said… let’s talk duvets. Why do hotels use them?! Changing those things is like wrestling a stubborn cloud. I think I’m getting better at it, but I’m still perfecting my “no lumps” technique.

    Oh, and one of the best parts? Blasting 60s Italian pop while we work. My housekeeping buddy Elenora loves to sing along, and I love hearing her belt out the classics. It’s little moments like that that make even the most mundane tasks feel joyful.

    With Love,

    Holly

  • Letter # 5

    Last Saturday night in Montieri there was a party. I’m still not exactly sure what we were celebrating—no signs, no fliers—but there was a DJ spinning beats in the street, people dancing! To top it someone even handed out slices of cake! It felt like we had stumbled into a spontaneous block party, and it was impossible not to smile while watching the locals chat, dance, and laugh together.

    The best part? The people. A few locals approached our little group, striking up conversation as if we were old friends. That’s just Monterri for you—warm, welcoming, and full of stories.

    It turns out Montieri was once a booming mining town, but when the mines shut down, the town emptied out. For years it was nearly abandoned, but slowly, people have been returning, and new businesses are popping up. It’s inspiring to see the revival of such a tight-knit and resilient community.

    One of those businesses is a charming little pizzeria—owned, funny enough, by the parents of one of our chefs. Small town vibes, right? Their pizzas are incredible, and on some weekends we take pizza orders from our guests and go pick them up. This past weekend, that job was mine.

    Ten boxes. One backseat. And a very serious instruction to secure the Pizzas. So I did what any responsible pizza courier would do—I buckled those babies in. Safety first. 😄

    This year marked my second 4th of July outside the U.S., which feels surreal. Instead of fireworks and BBQ, I found myself in Siena, Italy, eating Chinese food—and honestly, it was such a refreshing change.

    If you’ve traveled through smaller towns in Europe, you know it can be tricky to find decent international cuisine. While the U.S. is known for its wide array of food options, many European towns stick to their local specialties. So stumbling upon a pretty good Chinese spot after a seven-hour bus ride felt like finding buried treasure.

    That bus ride, was to Croatia. I had to deliver some documents in hopes of being approved for temporary EU residence. The journey didn’t go quite as planned—I didn’t get what I came for—but the experience wasn’t a loss. If anything, it gave me a deeper appreciation for the hoops people jump through to live or stay in another country. It’s not easy, and this week especially has been eye-opening.

    Still, the silver lining was spending time with friends in Croatia, taking a breath, and swimming in the sea this time the Adriatic.

    Until next time.

    With love,

    Holly

  • Letter # 4

    I’m blaming the snail mail for this letter’s lateness—not my forgetful brain (although let’s be honest, it played a role). The days here have been hot and sticky, and they’ve started to melt together like syrup on pancakes(love a good simile). Still, I try to hold on to one of my favorite quotes: “Every day may not be good, but there’s something good in every day.” So, here are a few of the “something goods” from the past week or so.

    Each evening before the restaurant opens, the staff gathers for dinner. About 90% of the time, it’s pasta—which, I suppose, is the most Italian thing ever. But let me tell you, I never thought I’d miss In-N-Out so deeply. And don’t even get me started on tacos—my precious Taco Tuesdays haunt my dreams. That said, one night we were surprised with a sautéed meat and vegetable dish served with rice, a rare break from the pasta parade and probably the closest I’ve come to Chinese food since arriving. That dish was definitely the good in that day.

    We’ve officially entered our busy season, and the hotel is nearly always full. This week I met my first Americans—hearing an accent like mine caught me completely off guard, but in the best way. Most of our guests come from Germany, the UK, the Netherlands, and Italy. It’s been so easy to build connections with them, which I think is one of the beautiful things about working in a small boutique hotel. You see people often: one minute I’m checking them in, the next I’m taking their dinner order. The relationships form naturally, and it’s honestly such a joy.

    One evening, a pair of guests from Germany—both doctors in their residencies—joined the staff for a barbecue (or a “brie,” as they call it). I asked how they managed a vacation during residency and learned they get six weeks off every year. Six. Weeks. Let’s just say I’ve started casually researching German citizenship.

    The design of our lobby encourages guests to linger and relax—it’s warm and open, with a piano and guitar tucked into one corner. One night, a guest treated us to an impromptu concert that turned the lobby into the coziest little concert hall. These are the moments that make this experience feel truly special.

    On my one day off each week, I’ve been making a point to explore more of Tuscany. I have a growing list of must-see spots, and I’m steadily working my way through it. This past Monday, I visited Porto Santo Stefano, a stunning coastal village on Monte Argentario. The water was crystal-clear blue, and sailboats bobbed gently in the harbor. I spotted one boat flying an American flag and snapped a photo, only to find out later from a guest—who happened to be docked nearby—that it once belonged to Humphrey Bogart. Casual! One day I hope to sail around Europe myself, but for now, gawking at other people’s yachts will do.

    Back at the hotel, one of my more satisfying little projects this week was rehoming a cluster of strawberry plants. It was surprisingly fun to dig into the dirt and transform empty area into a strawberry patch. There’s always something to work on here—no shortage of little projects. In my (very limited) free time, I’ve also taken on the ambitious task of building an Adirondack chair. Progress is slow and full of splinters, but I’ll keep you posted.

    So yes, the days are hot, the pasta is endless, and I dream of tacos often. But there’s music in the lobby, laughter around the dinner table, new friendships forming by the hour, and strawberries growing. If that’s not a little bit of good in every day, I don’t know what is.

    More soon (assuming snail mail doesn’t eat this one, too).

    With love,

    Holly

  • Letter # 3

    I fell a little behind with my letters, so this week you’re getting two! It’s a Tuesday night here in Tuscany, and thankfully, the weather has finally cooled down. I know many of you live in places far hotter than this, so I won’t complain too much—but last week, the temperature spiked to 35°C! (Yes, I’m really trying to teach myself the metric system… mostly because everyone teases me for still using the Imperial system. It’s tough to rewire your brain after a lifetime of Fahrenheit and miles! And honestly, I think people are less sympathetic to my heat complaints now that I’ve switched units—somehow 95°F sounds more dramatic than 35°C, doesn’t it?)

    Having grown up in Utah and spent time in Tucson, I’m no stranger to heat, but this Tuscan blend of dry and humid is something else. Let’s just say I’m very grateful I stuffed my suitcase with Liquid I.V. packs—they’ve been lifesavers.

    The big highlight of this past week was hosting our very first wedding of the season! This property truly is a dream wedding destination, and it’s easy to see why more couples choose it year after year. It was an exciting (and exhausting!) weekend, as a couple from Brazil booked out the entire property for their celebration. Over 35 friends and family flew in—plus two very well-dressed chihuahuas.

    With our small team, it was all hands on deck to prepare. I returned to my housekeeping roots and joined our incredible trio of housekeeping staff to clean and prep the rooms. I’ve always had a deep respect for the work that goes into housekeeping—it’s hard, physical labor, but incredibly rewarding. There’s something satisfying about seeing immediate results from your effort, and jumping back in brought back fond memories from my early hospitality days. Huge shoutout to all housekeepers out there—you are the backbone of every hotel and resort.

    I quickly got back into the rhythm, thanks in large part to one of our housekeeper, Eleonora. Despite our very limited shared vocabulary, we found ways to communicate—helped along by a little teamwork, a lot of miming, and some lively ’60s Italian pop music. One thing I still struggle with? Duvets! I may never understand the obsession with duvets—putting covers back on them on feels like a full-body workout, and I’m not convinced of their practicality either here or back home!

    Though I was busy running around, I did manage to watch the ceremony from a quiet corner—and it was bellissima. Near the end, they brought out the couple’s two chihuahuas, one in a dress and the other sporting a tuxedo collar. Just as they were being led down the hill toward the ceremony site, the groom dog made a break for it—cold paws, perhaps? After a solid 10-minute chase in the hot sun, he was caught and marched down the aisle to a surprisingly fitting yet cheesy, chihuahua-themed song.

    The weekend was a great success, and we’re already making plans for the next wedding. It’s been exciting to get a peek into the world of wedding planning—from initial conversations and contracts to the final execution. It’s definitely a side of hospitality I’d love to explore more.

    After a long, event-filled weekend, it was pure bliss to take a day off and return to the beach for a refreshing swim. We also visited another Tuscan town—Massa Marittima—which was very charming. Its grand cathedral anchors the town square, surrounded by narrow cobblestone streets, colorful shops, and tiny eateries. I’ve been learning more about Italian dining culture too—like the difference between a trattoria and a ristorante. A trattoria is typically family-run, casual, and hearty, serving traditional regional dishes at more affordable prices, while a ristorante tends to be more formal, with curated, contemporary menus. Every meal here is a lesson in culture and I love it!

    Tuscany continues to amaze me with its beauty, its people, and its rhythm of life. Each day brings something new to learn, taste, or appreciate. I’m soaking it all in—and grateful for every sun-drenched, pasta-filled, slightly chaotic moment.

    alla prossima volta!

    With love,


    Holly

  • Letter #2

    Time is moving so quickly—somehow, we’re already in June! The Tuscan sun is shining strong, and I’ve gotten my first sunburn of the summer (despite wearing sunscreen!). This week, I took a trip to the beach with some of the other staff members, and it felt amazing to finally swim in the sea. I’ve been wanting to take a dip since I arrived, and now that I’ve gone once, I think I’ll have to make it a weekly habit.

    I’m learning that Tuscany is a tapestry of small towns, each with its own charm—and names I can barely pronounce! One such town, Roccatederighi, sits high in the hills and is absolutely enchanting. There, we dined at a wonderful restaurant called De Nada Locanda Toscana, known for their thick, handmade pasta prepared to order. Sitting on their terrace, watching the sun set over the rolling landscape, I was once again in awe of this place. Time may be flying, but moments like that make me pause, take a breath, and feel deeply grateful to be here.

    Another thing I’ve come to truly appreciate is the culture. I still have so much to learn and observe, but this past Sunday, I sat in our little town of Montieri and just watched life unfold—people gathering in the streets, chatting in small groups, kids running and playing, nonnas selling their hand-painted tea cloths, and nonnos offering hand-carved olive wood bowls and spoons. There’s such a strong sense of community, and I love it. Even though I speak very little Italian, I can tell that communication is treasured here—it’s full of passion, warmth, and expression. I’m fascinated by how people speak with their hands and how their words flow so beautifully.

    Inspired by this, I’ve decided to dedicate this week to learning more of the language. I recently came across an Italian copy of Anne of Green Gables, one of my favorite stories. I’ve started using it to learn new words and phrases, and maybe—just maybe—by the end of my stay, I’ll be able to read it aloud and truly understand what I’m saying.

    Work at the hotel remains both busy and fulfilling. It’s always satisfying to see a project come together. This past week, we completed the finishing touches on our co-working space, and it’s already being used regularly! We’re now pressing pause on other projects as we prepare to host a Brazilian wedding this weekend. It’s the first of many to come this season—this one alone will fill all 35 rooms with the wedding party.

    Until next time.

    With love,
    Holly