Taylor Swift has been front and center lately, so it only feels right to kick off this entry with a lyric from her song: “August slipped away into a moment in time.” Honestly, August did just that—vanished before I could blink and I’m blaming that whirlwind for why this blog went on an extra-long sabbatical. But what a month it was! August in Italy is a magical time when locals hit the holiday circuit, and the villages come alive with parties and festivals.
Before Italy, I’d never heard of a palio. Twice a year in Siena, there’s a legendary horse race: each horse represents a different city neighborhood, and the streets flood with fans decked out in corridor colors and logos, cheering for their team. The horses race with bareback riders around the historic Piazza del Campo, a tradition that’s been going strong since 1633, drawing crowds that make Times Square look tame.
I had my heart set on seeing it, but luck wasn’t on my side; I missed the big event. Cue the tiny town of Roccatedertighi, which serves up a hilarious twist: a palio with donkeys instead of horses. How could I pass that up? We arrived bright and early, only to discover (after sitting through a marathon of Italian commentary) that the actual race wouldn’t happen until much later that night. Seizing the day, we wandered the city, soaking in sweeping views of Tuscany, before ducking home for a quick siesta.
When evening rolled around, we returned to find a sight that was equal parts chaotic and charming: grown men racing donkeys bareback through the winding village streets. The local excitement; part carnival, part comedy show—was absolutely infectious. It was one of those wild, unforgettable moments that made me grateful August slipped away with such style.
